Morning looks very promising after the warmest night we’ve had so far at 10C, but around 11am storm clouds roll over and it starts drizzling, then pouring buckets Considering it rains in Fiordland 200 days a year there was no point in waiting for the weather to clear completely, we checked out and headed for the Kepler trailhead. In a constantly evolving scheme of spending bare minimum, which in this case equaled avoiding fees of $50/person/night for two nights in DOC huts, we opted for day walks instead, trekking from both ends to get a taste. Fortunately, Kepler is one of a few trails designated as Great Walks by DOC that actually forms a loop, making it possible to end where you’ve parked your car. All others require taking shuttles and/or boats to pick you up at the end, which adds up to the cost considerably.
Time in-between is priceless. Waiting for the rain to clear - ElCheapo Super Lounge.
Armed with waterproof gear, we walk up the Waiau River through dense beech and podocarp forest. Incredibly, within minutes of heading out, it stops raining. Surrounded by fern up to the chin, it feels as if we’ve walked into an enchanted land overgrown with moss.
To find a free DOC campsite for the night, we take a scenic highway south of Te Anau to a quiet spot by Lake Manapouri, accompanied by beautiful landscapes rich in sunset glow. The night is freezing, bordering at or below 0C. Layered up I struggle to stay warm in the middle of the night and Sebastian, claiming his body temperature is higher, sacrifices and nonchalantly switches sleeping bags with me. Gotta love him. Actually I also need to learn how to cook with the MSR stove, just in case he gets tired of playing MacGyver several times a day.
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