Sebastian’s first day on a motorized two wheeler since he almost crashed friend’s motorcycle two years ago while going 20 mph down the alley. Instead of practicing in a park, he took three seconds down the sidewalk and dived right into the largest traffic circle in town. He suddenly grew a shiny sword in my eyes. Rental guy confirmed with approval - “He good driver.”
As we overcame our fear of Asian traffic, the reward was pure happiness and total freedom, minus a couple of adrenaline shots on major intersections and turns. Local drivers were very much aware of our unpolished skills and took extra caution passing us, patiently letting us merge by slowing down considerably. Turns out motor biking here is really not as bad as it looks from the pedestrians’ perspective. Took us a while to break the ice though…
The road to Langbiang Mountain, where we planned to hike, leads 15 km north of Dalat. All the maps we browsed stopped short of showing our destination but between one turn around and asking locals for directions getting there was pretty straightforward. We parked at the gate to the park, loaded up with extra water and headed up the trail.
After an hour of hiking, small asphalt road gave way to dirt path lined with pine needles and a smell so intoxicating we were feeling lightheaded. It was a continuous incline of 30-45%, described as moderate in our guidebook, but once we entered a tropical microclimate in the final stretch the climb felt more like strenuous 60%. Humidity in the upper region of the mountain was so high we expected a downpour of blood sucking leeches and swarms of mosquitoes, but thankfully there were none. For some unknown reason we just find great satisfaction in torturing our bodies with trekking in challenging terrain and/or weather conditions and can fully appreciate views from the top only after we’ve dripped buckets of sweat and wolfed down liters of water while sliding down muddy trails, traversing thick vegetation, and fighting scorching sun. We were both not gifted in the art of relaxing resort style.
As we overcame our fear of Asian traffic, the reward was pure happiness and total freedom, minus a couple of adrenaline shots on major intersections and turns. Local drivers were very much aware of our unpolished skills and took extra caution passing us, patiently letting us merge by slowing down considerably. Turns out motor biking here is really not as bad as it looks from the pedestrians’ perspective. Took us a while to break the ice though…
The road to Langbiang Mountain, where we planned to hike, leads 15 km north of Dalat. All the maps we browsed stopped short of showing our destination but between one turn around and asking locals for directions getting there was pretty straightforward. We parked at the gate to the park, loaded up with extra water and headed up the trail.
Third of the way up a local guy smiled our way and yelled:
- Where from?
- Poland.
- Yeah!! Poland!!
Gloomy Vietnamese are a definite stereotype.
After an hour of hiking, small asphalt road gave way to dirt path lined with pine needles and a smell so intoxicating we were feeling lightheaded. It was a continuous incline of 30-45%, described as moderate in our guidebook, but once we entered a tropical microclimate in the final stretch the climb felt more like strenuous 60%. Humidity in the upper region of the mountain was so high we expected a downpour of blood sucking leeches and swarms of mosquitoes, but thankfully there were none. For some unknown reason we just find great satisfaction in torturing our bodies with trekking in challenging terrain and/or weather conditions and can fully appreciate views from the top only after we’ve dripped buckets of sweat and wolfed down liters of water while sliding down muddy trails, traversing thick vegetation, and fighting scorching sun. We were both not gifted in the art of relaxing resort style.
There was a delicacy in Dalat we rewarded ourselves with after the trek and on multiple other occasions without an occasion - ‘slow’ Vietnamese coffee from a small café next to a water lily pond. Watching as it drips into the cup can be hypnotizing...especially with the right surroundings. For lack of words it was delicious, smooth, deep roast with taste of cocoa lingering long after the last sip, not a hint of bitter aftertaste. The best we’ve had. EVER. They also served amazing, freshly grinned, perfectly spiced ginger tea. Afterwards we’ve had energy to spare, climbing winding streets in search of new angles.
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