April 4 - 5, Arthur's Pass, Scotts Track to Avalanche Peak

Reflecting our moods today, morning breaks with heavy grey clouds. Drifting on great hopes of heading up the Avalanche Track the following day we head north, driving in pouring rain to Arthur’s Pass village, NZ highest altitude settlement. Steadily climbing, meandering road through the Southern Alps lands us at Klondyke Corner, a free basic DOC campsite just a few kilometers from the village. Partially because it’s raining and partially because we’ve gotten a little lazy, but mostly because we’re expecting the night to be freezing, we settle in the car for the evening and snuggle with hot tea and a book in hand. We’ve actually developed quite a comfortable sleeping arrangement at the back of ElCheapo and nights bringing about hypothermia are now locked outside our cocoon on wheels. We originally wanted to visit New Zealand in late April, now, having struggled to stay warm at night on several occasions, the idea of camping in late fall seems very unrealistic, especially on the South Island. 


Sure enough, we wake up to frost and snow covered peaks. The rain has stopped and the sun is piercing through clouds and mist, creating a beautiful rainbow across the valley. Experiencing New Zealand’s four seasons in one hour is truly not an understatement. 



As suggested by very helpful DOC staff [this time Sebastian goes by himself to charm the ladies], we set off on an alternate route, 4 hour return, which meets with Avalanche Track at the ridge but is more suited for current weather conditions. Tramping [as Kiwis like to call hiking] Avalanche Peak, 1830m, from Scotts Track leads steeply uphill across a rocky terrain amidst trees and bushes, with streams cascading down the trail, making jumping through hoops inevitable, slippery and hiking more time consuming. Getting passed the bush line within 30 minutes rewards us with 360 degree views of snow capped mountains and at about 1400m there are first signs of snow accumulated overnight. Surprisingly, the fully exposed ridge shows no signs of gushing winds and we leisurely absorb the views.  

After abusing DOC resources at hand and charging electronics at the shelter back in the village, we drive towards Kaikoura. Fatigue is getting the best of us as we find a suitable camp spot, some 70km from our destination, and dine roadside style - corned beef sandwiches and wine.