March 25, Fraz Josef and Fox Glaciers, camp by Haast River

Early in the morning inquisitive Kea parrots attack our wipers and then start yapping away at Sebastian, as he gets out of the car at Franz Josef. There are message boards all around park warning against feeding them and advising about their pesky ways, but we had no idea that a red hat would aggravate them so. 

...so proud of herself

The walk leading to a terminal face of the glacier takes about an hour one way, passing an immense waterfall on the way and crossing mostly dry river bed. It hasn’t been raining here for a while, which makes it possible to get as close as 100m from the ice face. Typically, levels of the river make is prohibitive to get closer than 200m, as the small creek can change into wild current even with small rainfall up in the mountains. To get a close up view and a more intimate experience on the glacier it’s necessary to take glamorously advertised guided tours or, even  better, helicopter rides. However, discouraged by the prices and tales of fellow travelers, we took neither, maybe that’s why our impression of Franz was subdued. Yeah, it’s a pretty cool sweep of ice, especially the scale of it, but it’s also largely covered by a protective debris layer that slows down its’ melting rate, which in turn renders it somewhat unsightly. But that’s just the visuals, surely the science of it is spectacular.  

taking warnings very seriously

Franz Josef Glacier

Back in Franz Josef Village we get 10 min of internet for $5. Nothing but outrageous comes to mind. Adding to it, a 4x4 patch of grass on NP grounds dares to call itself a ‘Picnic Area’. No tables, no boulders, and, because we were too cheap to get folding chairs for the trip, nothing to rest on except folded over laminated road atlas. Moments like these make us feel like hobos not backpackers, wishing we were in our right mind to spent $20 for a salad or chicken burger at a sidewalk cafe. Regardless, warmed up grilled vegetables from yesterday taste delicious.

Fox Glacier

Keeping up with the icy theme of the day we hike to the face of Fox Glacier, a smaller but much more rewarding spectacle compared to Franz. They’re both stars of the Westland Tai Poutini NP but the access at Fox gets us within 80m from the terminal face and the valley walk is more interesting. Also, the ice seems more blue than grey, a huge plus in terms of visuals. 



We’re about 3 days ahead of the storm system coming from the northwest, beautiful sunny weather graces us all day, 20C. Perhaps that’s just what our new arch nemesis needs to thrive - we’re at war with sand flies the size of beefy fruit flies with an attitude of ferocious mosquitoes . It’s an invasion. At campsite it becomes impossible to sit outside and not be under attack. Dressed head to toe, including gloves, hats and hoods, I seek cover in the car as Sebastian bravely boils water for daily serving of Rama noodles. Defeated and exhausted from fighting the swarms, we barricade ourselves in the tent.

Campsite by Haast River. To stand here for a brief moment was definitely worth thirty sand fly bites. Or more.