March 24, Punakaiki (Pancake Rocks), Southern Alps, and Okarito

Crushing waves and rooster calling at the break of dawn leave us disoriented for a minute - are we back in Thailand?
Morning dew drenched tent, which we bought in Auckland just for this trip, is soaking wet, but heavy duty base stays dry, proving it can last through frequent rains typical for New Zealand’s climate. We pack up, say goodbye to Frank, and head south towards Franz Josef Glacier, hoping good weather lasts until we reach Soutland. 

rugged Tasman Coast

Pancake Rocks, Punakaiki

After a quick stop at Punakaiki to see Panckake Rocks and self-catered breakfast of milk coffee, muesli and apple sauce, the road leads through Ferguson’s Scenic Reserve. Mammoth trees dominate the switchback hillside road that suddenly opens to views of Lake Ianthe in the valley below. Epic moments like this are a daily cup of tea, quite ’standard’ road trip playground sceneries in a country which seems like one big National Park and where every turn calls for a photo.


Mid day we pass Whataroa, with wide river bed flanked by spring green meadows and grazing sheep surrounded by Southern Alps - we’ve never seen an azure colored river like this. Simply surreal. 

Lake Mapourika

Camping short of Franz Joseph tonight seemed like a prudent idea. Okarito, where we initially stopped, is right on the coast and made famous for an intricate ecosystem of water and tidal flats, part of NZ’s largest unmodified wetland. The lagoon surrounded by rainforest is an ideal spot for fishing, a perfect tease for Sebastian wishing he bought that fishing rod from a guy in Auckland.As a mere substitute for fresh fish, we grill potatoes, peppers, and onions, flavored with olive oil and Cajun seasoning. Opening that tinfoil package, still hot and bubbling inside, with all the flavors puffing open, was heavenly.

Then there was a dilemma of daily hygiene...Staying fresh and clean on the road is not made easy by DOC, as majority of campsites, even paid ones, don’t have shower facilities and we’re forced to improvise as best we can. This particular private campsite in Okarito was a treat and, even though we didn’t stay for the night, we were free to use their paid showers. Almost uncomfortable in our new skin and fresh change of clothes we headed further south and docked for the night at a cozy picnic area by Lake Mapourika. As if to wipe clean any convictions that we’re the only ones looking to coast free, the parking lot and patch of grass by the lake fills up with tents and campervans before nightfall...and it's a party!