March 13, Shanghai: Yu Yuan Gardens and Pudong

The day starts slightly out of tune because of jet-lag, but it's nothing that can't be cured with a bowl of instant ramen. We have our fill and afterwards head for the front desk where one of the guys, for a small fee (and totally worth it), saves us some serious logistical headache and helps us arrange for next day train tickets to Suzhou and ongoing travel to Mt. Huangshan. Shanghai has a huge international community and tourists are anything but rarity, but buying tickets for trains or buses borders on impossible even here, unless you have someone write down details (including train type, sleeping berth, etc) in traditional Chinese characters. Pinyin is often as useless as English. We're in for a trip, especially in more rural areas, that's for sure.

impressive bamboo scaffolding for a highrise

Since we're dealing with a 14 hour time difference, it would be wise to take it easy for the first couple of days, acclimate and take urban exploration one step at a time. But that would be unlike us. After scouting the neighborhood, we head out to Yu Yuan Gardens in the Old City and spend half a day wandering the grounds of over 30 halls and pavilions.

 

 Yu Gardens Bazaar, Old City

Yu Gardens Bazaar, nestled by the lake in the center of the complex, is lined with small shops, souvenir stalls, tempting dumplings and snacks at every corner - all bathed in a pretty powerful and very characteristic sour scent of fried 'stinky tofu'. Ahhh, we're in China indeed!  

 

 

 

 all these delicious distractions!

following snack time...lunch time!

spicy noodle soup, dumplings, jasmine tea.

Built during the Ming dynasty, scenic Yu Yuan Gardens are a relatively peaceful area of mazes and zigzag stone bridges, ponds and water features, restored temples and tea houses dating back 400 years. I say relatively, because we're in the world's most populous country, with population of over 1.3 billion, and rapidly growing, despite the one-child policy. Some shoving and pushing is bound to happen. It's also expected that moments of peace and quiet will be a luxury that we might possibly not come across. Well, at least amazing noodles abound to put things in perspective.

 courtyard by the entrance

 
simplicity, gentle curves, and warmth of of these chairs calls for a comparison with Thonet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
characteristic 'flying eaves'

 

 

Lost in the moment and totally oblivious to crawling-germ-and-spit-infested pavement.  

I love his dedication. 

I'm also kinda revolted just looking at it...

 

 

...and here I already forgot Sebastian just wiped the ground with his body

 

 
privacy and breeze combined

 

Walls topped with an undulating dragon divide the garden into several areas, which makes it feel like a maze and seem larger than it actually is.

 

Before nightfall we walk the landmark dotted Bund and take metro across Huangpu River to highrise dominated Pudong district. Granted the status of Special Economic Zone in the early 90's, it has since become the city's newest and most rapidly developing area. It is one of the largest construction sites in the world, supposedly equipped with a third of the world's largest cranes. The extensive transformation from the dilapidated  slum and brothel ridden quarter it used to be, has been remarkable. So is the permanent blanket of smog visible from the 90th floor of Shanghai World Financial Center. A powerful and disturbing impression.

 

Big names are plastered all over Pudong, here's Louis Vuitton.
What shoes? What bags?? Look at these facets and fritted glass!!

 

 Engulfed by smog. 

View from the top - Shanghai World Financial Center

Our hostel is conveniently located on South Yunnan Road 'Food Street' and for dinner we devour specialties from just that southwest province. 

Yunnan specialties: cured and dried beef infused with spicy oil, pea soup, and assortment of greens, bamboo, and algae. Fresh and packed with flavor.

Amazing meal all around but shredded beef was a definite standout.