April 13, Wharau Regional Park

After hot showers and laundry in New Plymouth we feel human again.
With images of beautiful coastal scenery implanted in our brains by Lonely Planet we drive to Waitakere Regional Park, west of Auckland. Before getting there, night time catches us in Wharau Regional Park on the east coast, maybe 100km from our destination.

Afternoon and sunset on the west coast, sunrise on the east. NZ is like a small goodie box of natural wonders.

April 10 - 12, Mt Taranaki (Egmont), overnight trek

Revived after good, warm night sleep at Manakau campsite we drive towards Mt Taranaki NP, dominated by a 2518m volcanic cone. We bypassed it on the way south, chasing good weather in Fiordlands, and now are eager to feel it under our soles. There is something magnetic about a volcano overdue to erupt [last one here was 350 years ago], luring with it’s dominating presence over predominantly flat surroundings. Even from afar it’s an absolute, awe inspiring beauty.

Mt Taranaki

It’s possible to cover Pouakai Circuit in two days, crossing lowland rainforest, cliffs, sub alpine forest, and wetlands at the foot of Mt Taranaki/Egmont. With panoramic valley views, reveled shortly after steep 30 min ascend, and constant presence of the snowcapped volcano, it’s a very rewarding track rich in diverse terrain. Heading out around 8am we climb passed boulders, streams, swamps, and dry river beds, stop at Holly Hut for lunch and reach the next DOC hut,  glued to the ridge, across the valley from Mt Taranaki around 4pm - ready to stretch our legs and take in the surroundings - Tasman Sea coastline in the background and mountain ridges draped in dense clouds. 

 Climb shortly passed Holly Hut is a killer, but the views, like always, make up for any and all pains. 

end of the day, ridge across the valley from Mt Taranaki

breakfast with the view

Early in the morning swamps and the view that inspired the urge to hike this trail are right in front of us. Breathe in.

At one point steps and ladders, 890 and counting, seem like a never ending nightmare. Sebastian presses ahead. I just try to act tough, tongue hanging out.

There are some unabridged river crossings involved - really fun, especially when you’re slipping across moss covered boulders - until one almost claims our dry shoes. 

April 9, Wellington

Beautifully situated around a harbor among lush hills, sunny Wellington entertains us for a day. This capital city seems like a perfect concoction for nature loving urbanites, on one hand offering abundant opportunities for mountain biking, kayaking, sailing, swimming, and on another a vibrant city life with great music scene, galleries, dozens of atmospheric locally owned bookshops, bars and restaurants, keen eye for design and full embrace of sustainability. 

interactive art throughout the city

facade screen detail at the Supreme Court

 driven to extremes ;)

Exploring city grounds for a change is refreshing, but leaves us slightly overwhelmed after so much time spent in the wilderness, far removed from the crowds and enclosed spaces. It’s actually comforting to know screaming nocturnal birds will lull us to sleep under a starlit sky tonight. 

15 min passed Wellington and we're back at nature's playground. Kapiti Island in the distance.

April 7 -8, Marlborough and Queen Charlotte Track

After a freezing night spent in the car at a remote DOC campsite, we head towards Marlborough Region and Queen Charlotte Track up a coastal roadway that feels like a racing track, with turns to spare. The hiking track itself crosses through private land, carrying administration fees for the privilege of walking the entire length of this Great Walk. We’re mostly after views of the Kenepuru and Queen Charlotte Sounds from above the tree line, therefore decide to cover only a section of the trail that leads to a panoramic overlook, near Mistletoe Bay. 

Kenepuru Sound

It rains again in the evening when, safe in our car, we play the game “What’s That Smell?” There are no winners. 


The next day, after fun but fruitless hunt for mussels and oysters, covered by last night‘s high tide, we drive back to Picton to catch late night ferry to Wellington and score discounted tickets for a midnight ride, arriving on the other side of Cook Straight around 1.30am. What were we thinking? Needless to say, we're left driving in pitch darkness on a treasure hunt for a spot to camp in Tararua Forest Park. 
By the way, if you’re looking for an exhilarating experience in New Zealand, forget bungee jumping, paragliding, skydiving, zorbing…just come onboard Cook Strait ferry during ‘Heavy’ sea conditions. 

April 6, Kaikoura - paua, seals and seaweed

Peninsula town of Kaikoura sits stretched at the foot of Seaward Kaikoura Range with its face to the afternoon sun. Abundance of marine wildlife here is so close at hand: whales, penguins, dolphins, petrels, albatrosses, and seals either visit or make this area their home due to unique continental-shelf conditions and favorable ocean current. Coastal Walkway, lined with fantastic formations of exposed rocky beach, leads along the cliffs to South Bay and back to town. Gracing the shore, seals glisten lazily passing time, too cool to open their eyes for the camera, and shearwater bird colonies hold daily meetings over the latest catch.

Seaweed, paua, and snails lining abstract crevices

Kaikoura coast.

Ultra strong seaweed with texture of a smooth rubber tire, scattered in piles everywhere. Hauling a car with it would be a piece of cake.

Another night in the car. We arrive at a remote and free DOC campsite [toilet, but water source] and could pitch a tent but at 6pm it already feels like the night will be close to lower single digits.