Monday, February 28, 2011

Feb 22 - 24, Battambang, Cambodia


Visiting floating villages on the way to Siem Reap lured us into Battambang. With population of 130,000 it is the second largest city in Cambodia and one with the best preserved French colonial architecture in the country. Relaxed way of life kept us wandering the streets, sipping coffee at family run cafes for hours at a time and lingering outside temples in hopes of catching orange clad monks passing by. Initially we planned on exploring nearby hill temples, but our first day was entirely drenched in pouring rain, anomaly of the dry season, and the first downpour we’ve had since our travels in Asia begun eight weeks ago. Very refreshing. Despite the weather, or perhaps because of it, the town charmed us right away. 
To our pleasant surprise Cambodia has proven to be very easy on traveler’s spirit and pocket. Bus transportations in super cheap and well organized, with the convenience of booking tickets through guest houses and hotels. Great budget accommodations start at just $5, street food is everywhere, and amazing restaurant meals can be enjoyed for barely $3. Tuk tuk hassling is on the lowest we’ve witnessed so far and the people are simply amazing, very warm, and hospitable.  
Also, there’s many volunteering opportunities to be grabbed, the only drawback is minimum one month’s commitment. Bummer.


girl power
these shutter-like garage doors open up to reveal shops, cars, and living rooms - sometimes all in one room
mini temples on every single balcony 
Amok, baked fish with coconut and lemon grass, Cambodia's national dish.
vegetable samlor
delicious ginger chicken with shallots and bok choy

We waited...
...and waited outside the temple across the street...
...for monks to start collecting their evening alms.
Wat Damrey Sar
Outside gated grounds of the temple were rows of miniature temples resembling burial gravestones. Very unexpected.  
guards flanking gates to the Wat

Lychee fruit, our daily addiction. 
They're the size of chestnuts with texture and taste of a plum dipped in sweetened lime.

     

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Feb 19 - 21, Phnom Penh, Cambodia


Phnom Penh has been through horrors of Khmer Rouge and devastation of civil war but the optimism and infectious smile of its people persisted, rising the capital from the ashes. The pace of life here is even more relaxed than in Thailand, traffic glides leisurely and stroll is more in tune with the surroundings than a brisk walk. After twelve hour bus ride from Krabi we chose to fly in from Bangkok and even though Phnom Penh wasn’t originally part of the itinerary it happened to be much cheaper destination to fly into than Siem Reap. We cleared customs briskly and within minutes were on our way to the city in Khmer version of a tuk tuk - comfy seat on wheels attached to a motorcycle. Somehow we had to get over the aversion we developed for all types of rickshaws and taxis, because there simply was no other way of getting from the airport. 


The area close to Psar Thmei proved to be ideal for our stopover, it is central and has a small neighborhood vibe to it, with mango selling vendors on bicycles, laundry hung out to dry in balconies, and skewered pigs roasting next to local men enjoying breakfast at corner cafés. 


organized chaos
stuffed with long grass on the inside they're ready for consumption by early afternoon
three mangoes for a dollar, free enthusiasm

The Russian Market is a wonderful maze of stalls selling everything you need and don't need but still want to buy. Natural light pours through makeshift roof openings creating surprising moments of ephemeral beauty.


not yet sure what this fruit is...but it just looks fun to eat
instead of a container, plastic bag to go



Genocide of the late 70's is very much alive today. Under the brutal Khmer Rouge rule an estimated 1.7 million people were exterminated in little under four years. Sick and elderly got enslaved and forced into labor camps while intellectual were interrogated, imprisoned, and tortured only to be killed and dumped into mass graves, their kids murdered to prevent future retaliation, all in an effort to create a utopian agrarian based society untainted by history. We visited two places that stand witness to those events early in the morning...and couldn't erase horrid images from our mind for the rest of the day...maybe that's just the intent.


Exhumed remains from mass graves at KIlling Fields of Choung Ek outside of Phnom Penh

Tuol Sleng, a school turned into main imprisonment and torturing ground, brings shivers to the bone. Concrete, barb wire, walls marked by bullet holes…long hallways and infinite number of photographed prisoners…

"To keep you is no benefit. To destroy you is no loss."
Wife of an attorney-at-law and their newborn baby.  



Feb 11 - 18: Rai Leh (Railay), Thailand

 The bus from Bangkok dropped us off at the pier in Krabi from where we took a long tail boat across the bay to Rei Leh East. It wasn’t however until we walked a dirt path to Rei Leh West that the absolute azure of the water melted with the sky right in front of us. Framed by mangroves, coastal rock formations, and stalactite caves Phangan Beach felt otherworldly and grand, yet very intimate and secluded. Absolutely amazing sight. The site is home to some of the best rock climbing, offers great kayaking, snorkeling, and diving opportunities, not to mention mega olympics in beach bumming - discipline we excelled in guilt free for a week. Grand plans to visit neighboring Andaman island of Ko Phi Phi took a back seat as we explored more of Rai Leh’s surroundings.      


Rai Leh West
path leading to...
 ...paradise - Phangan Cave Beach



beach bistro serving thin pancakes with various fillings and other Thai staples
rotti with chicken, vegetables, and spicy sauce on top
with banana and nutella

long tail boat operated by pretty massive motors that require serious maneuvering 

In lieu of a day trip to extravagant Ko Phi Phi island, we hopped a boat to explore various smaller islands in the archipelago...

Sebastian making a splash and scaring all the pretty fishes
taking too many photos of these traditional longtail boats is impossible
day five on the beach and still hopelessly white as the snow

we got the urge to sweat more than usual and climbed to the viewpoint in Rei Leh
definitely well worth the effort
I got pretty excited about this tree, but how could you not?
cathedral high canopy ceilings

Feasting upon our return: stir fried noodles with chicken and vegetables, coconut noodles, and curry with meat and fresh basil and curry leaves.



Every home, bar, restaurant has one of these small temples near the front entry. Fresh offerings are put out every morning after ruthless roosters have finished their morning call and the floors have been swept clean.

bamboo home for the week with hammock being the most prized furnishing