Dec 27, daily finds

Intolerable Materiality of Being...

... in the Parlor of Time

Dec 26, Przemysl Old Town

Dating back to early 8th century, Przemysl is the second oldest city in southern Poland after Krakow. In the beginning of the twentieth century it was the third largest fortress in Europe. With it's turbulent history, marked by the First Partition of Poland and subsequent annexation into Austrian Empire, the city was also invaded during World War II and divided along San river between Nazi Germany and Soviet Union. Postwar settlement established border with Russia a few kilometers east of the city. Growth of Przemysl was stunted as it was cut off from it's hinterland to the east and prewar economic prosperity was never fully restored.  Nevertheless, it's hidden beauty prevails. 

Dec 25, Christmas

It's very quiet this morning - huge contrast to the last couple of days when every house in Poland was a beehive. At moments it seemed there would be no end to stirring, kneading, stuffing, mixing, frying, peeling, cutting, grinding, baking, cooking, cooking, cooking. According to traditions of Wigilia, anyone acting like a Grinch on this day, misbehaving or whining about any minute of it would bring misfortune upon oneself in the upcoming year, so I obliged and fully committed. Who was I to complain when my 83 year old Grandma was running full speed, finally sitting down to rest around 9 pm, five minutes before we set a table. With all her health problems, vitality and energy of this woman put me to shame sometimes. 

It really was no different in Bielsko, where Sebastian and his Grandma swarmed by preparations stopped for a minute to video call on Skype. The idea was for both of our Grandmas to "meet", but at that very moment mine had hands greased up her elbows and was rolling four makowce, no joke of a task. We'll try again today. 

"dla Elizki" - Babcia agreed to take this one for my sister 

A minute prior to this, she was holding her cheek up with a finger saying that "it's dripping".

She doesn't believe me when I tell her I love the way I'll look in 50 years. 

Looking at her - I do.

Finally resting.

It's no easy task to capture her in photos, she doesn't like taking them and she's very swift getting out of the frame.

   

Dec 24, Wigilia

Today Wigilia (from Latin Vigilia, or awaiting). Celebrated the day before Christmas, it's deeply rooted in Polish tradition, emanating smells, sights, and folklore unique to the occasion. It revolves around family and a festive twelve course dinner that starts late in the evening, when the first star in the sky is spotted. Closing my eyes I can still see us kids with noses glued to the window, waiting. Somehow my only living memories of this day at Grandma's are back from the late 1980's, when it was beaming with life and bursting at the seams with people, preparations, food cooking simultaneously on all four burners and makowiec (poppy seed cake) fresh  from the oven - all despite grim political reality of the time. Magical.
This year our pack shrank.
We're holding everyone dearly in our hearts today, wishing you an amazing evening and Christmas time filled with love and happiness. 
   


This piece strikes a cord, especially today; it's truly the soul of this soil, yet universal. 
With all our love!

Dec 20, Przemysl and prepping for Christmas

Feeding an old furnace in the basement with logs and chunks of coal, making sure chimney valve is turned 30 degrees east - otherwise all warmth escapes. Peeling apples for Grandma’s famous tart topped with kruszonka (sweet crumbles). Listening to endless stories and writing down recipes for home made herbal remedies and old-world dishes, particular, capsules of time. Making pierogi for the first time (!) - a true ritual with Grandma's guidance keeping me afloat. Simplicity. Feels like philosophy at its‘ purest.  

Grandma’s recipe, with just the right amount of hot water, one egg, pinch of salt, and sifted flour.

 As many shapes as people who make them. 100 made, 50 eaten at once. 

Freezing temperatures have subsided, winds escalated and we took on the highest elevation in Przemysl, Kopiec Tatarski. Obstructions in first photo caused by 'extreme' conditions. 

Dec 17, Myslovitz live!

Traveling to Przemysl to see D - 8 hrs (344 km).
Train ride back to Rzeszow - 1.5hrs (80 km).
Hunting around Rzeszow for tickets to a sold out show - 6 hrs.
Waiting in front of the concert venue in freezing weather, hoping to scalper tickets - 2.5 hrs.
Seeing Myslovitz live in Poland - p r i c e l e s s. 


Perseverance paid off! Despite almost loosing all hope, a sea of those with tickets was let inside and afterwards a handful of us, determined to the bone, was given a chance to purchase unclaimed tickets. We were finally inside! Mis was blasting from the speakers and the crowd became a mass of excitement synchronized with every beat. Nothing short of amazing! Clarity of sound unsurpassed by any record, energy of the crowd unmatched. Unforgettable experience! We got our shooting star.

Cybulski temporarily lost my affections but smiles nevertheless ;)

Dec 15, Poland, under the cherry tree

Poland. Przemysl sits quietly under a fresh blanket of snow and heavy down cover that pins me to bed. Past few days have been a quilt of emotions and tales permeating the house of four clocks that haven't worked since I had braids tied with a bow, maybe longer. My sister and I spent every summer of our childhood here. Filled with fabric scraps that fell from Singer heaven, meticulously draped over dolls, raspberries that soaked our fingertips, lingonberries picked by the bucket, and soup of flowers and mud served in a playhouse under a watchful eye of the Cherry Tree - recently amputated. Paradise lost, our Grandparents' house. Now just for one, it seems to be suspended in time. Grandma's parchment skin, beautiful, as a sole reminder.    


Sebastian is coming with a visit tomorrow. After seeing a dentist without anesthesia and 7h train ride I'm sure he'll be full of colorful stories.


  

Dec 7, goodbyes suck

Leaving people you love behind, knowing you won't see them for quite some time, always tastes bitter. It's against reason and the concept of time how fast two weeks can fly by. We're so grateful to Ania and Jarek for letting us stay with them and occupy half of their living room, throwing their long established family schedule in disarray on more than one occasion. We love you and we'll miss you dearly!

First snow. Family portrait with Ania and Amelie, 14mo. Only Jarek is missing, hacking away at a ceiling nearby with incredible dedication.

Cybulski practicing above;)

We left them on each other's watch for two seconds...

Packing our bags today - our flight to Poland leaves early tomorrow morning. We'll be staying with family in Bielsko and Przemysl, celebrating Christmas separately and meeting up again shortly before we depart for India on January 4th. Our access to internet might be limited over the next month and our replies to emails delayed, please bear this in mind if you don't hear from us right away. We'll post again as soon as we can. Happy Holidays!

Dec 6, Catan!

One word: Catan. If only we discovered this board game on day one of our stay in Germany! The logic of it is comparable to Monopoly, except there's no linear path to follow and you build roads, villages and cities with goods instead of money. Medieval concept of economic growth, architecture and engineering in your grasp. Kids are coming out.

- "I'll give you four sheaves of grain for one of your sheep."

- "Don't! I'll give you twice as many not to trade with him."

- "Neither of you is getting my sheep! Both of you just take me for an easy pray!"

Brutal times - so bloody exciting!
At the end, a novice wins by one point. 
(all players over 30 ;)

Dec 5, Seligenstadt and more sausage

Seligenstadt is a small town in the state of Hesse, about 25 km outside of Frankfurt am Main, and one of Germany's oldest towns, with early settlement dated back to 100 AD. We visited on one cold afternoon, wrapped in layers and with market's Gluhwein on our mind.Timber architecture of the Old Town has Hansel and Gretel fairytale charms. 

walking these narrow streets medieval times come to life and it's easy to get lost in centuries long gone 

so cuddly....if only a bit smelly

again we finish off with more sausage, perfectly grilled on open fire - mustard only. 

here ketchup goes against all gastronomic traditions. 

Dec 2, euro mtv

This song is around every corner.....some visuals seem like fast forward glimpse into our trip

Dec 1, India around the corner

Last night we made a hostel reservation in India for January 5th and 6th. Considering a major cultural shock in the weeks to follow we also arranged for taxi pick-up from the airport, hoping little pre-planning will shave off some hassle upon arrival. 
It is slowly dawning on us that this trip will not end in two weeks. Thoughts are slowing down, stress is going away, and micro-analyzing everything is taking a back seat. Relief.


At the construction site saw dust was going to our heads and we became our own entertainment:  

unplugged & harmless